The little cavity that the silicone fills can be wiped smooth and dries in a matter of hours.  The silicone will hold strong yet it will not crack or become brittle like duct tape with temperature changes or gets wet.  Once the silicone dries, it does a couple of other things that are a nice by-product.

1. It will keep out dirt and dust from the backfill without drying it out,  like it does with the duct tape.
2. It creates an even tighter seal for the liner to get sucked in when using the liner vac.
3. It helps hold back any ground water that you might have.

Didn’t think of that did you?  The silicone is a water tight seal unlike the duct tape that everyone else uses.  Will it hold back a tidal wave of ground water, probably not; but it will surely keep it at by for a little bit.  In the ongoing effort of Penguin Pools to find an end to floating liners, this is just one more step to victory.

Look closely and you will see that the seams of each wall are a little discolored white with the silicone.

Water takes the path of least resistance and will essentially find any gap around your pool to fill into.  If you have a high water table or a soil base that doesn’t allow water to run through it easily, you can get what is called a “floating liner”.  When the ground water pressure is more than the water pressure inside the pool, it essentially pushes the liner off the vermiculite bottom.

The pool water in the pool didn’t have enough pressure to hold back the ground water.  While this can happen to anyone that doesn’t have enough water in the pool, it can also happen when your pool is completely full of water.  The way to prevent this is to find a way to remove all the water from underneath your pool.

The traditional way to create a sump system is to ::
Dig a 3′ – 4′ deep hole next to the pool
Put a 4″ – 5″ diameter piece of PVC into the hole
Fill the bottom with washed rock
Put a sump pump into the pit to take out all the water.

I have a couple of issues with this system ::
1.  It doesn’t work, we replace liners all the time that have customers who accept the fact that liners float.
2.  The majority of the time liners float in the deep end where the most water collects, traditional sump systems only go 3′ – 4′ down.
3.  What happens in the winter when the discharge pipe freezes and the water has no place to go?

A sump system should do two things ::
1. catch the ground water to allow it to seep into the earth
2. have a way to pump the water out when if it gets full.

Penguin Pools builds sump systems for vinyl liner and fiberglass swimming pools much differently than anyone else.  We over-dig the depth of the pool 24″ – 36″ in the entire deep end hopper.  For this 8′ deep pool we hit ground water at 6′ down.

We then fill in the over-dug hopper with roughly 12″ of 1″ washed rock.  This rock doesn’t have any fine shards or powder in it, allowing water to run through it with no resistance . . . yet it will not settle!

When there is a good base of stone in the bottom of the hopper, Penguin Pools places a PVC rectangle in the bottom of the hopper.  The rigid PVC (1.5″ or 2″) has holes drilled into it every 2″ – 3″, allowing water to fill up in the piping.  This will be our way to remove the water with the pool pump . . .  Yup, we run a plumbing line directly to the pool pump.  * Notice how the rock doesn’t settle as the guys walk on it, even with it being saturated with water on wet clay!

Once the PVC grid is placed on the washed rock, cover it with landscape fabric to help prevent dirt from clogging it up over the years.

Fill the sump system with rock, holding the felt in place, until you get to the elevation you need for the vermiculite.

You can now pour your vermiculite like normal knowing that you have a completely functional sump system in the pool.

The sump system that Penguin Pools builds, allows water to collect at the lowest point of the pool and naturally drain into the ground.  It also allows you to simply turn a valve and remove all the water from under your pool.  You will have to install a discharge pipe if you use a cartridge filter (3 way valve after the filter) or simply turn your sand filter valve to waste if that is what you use.

While Penguin Pools has never had a floating liner with this system, there is nothing to say that we can’t.  However, this system uses standard home building practices to remove water while allowing the ground to absorb as much as it can.

Penguin Pools can also use an existing main drain line to create a sump system and get rid of your water issues.  We take out the liner, cut the main drains out, and build the above system using the already run main drain line for your sump system.  This process is usually best when you get your liner replaced so you aren’t paying for you liner replacement twice.

Here is a sump system that we installed in Muskego, WI.  Notice how the ramp also gets washed rock, that way any water that gets to the ramp will drain to the bottom where it can be sucked out.

Major cities that have clay and that will result in a floating liner may include, Muskego, Waterford, Brookfield, New Berlin, Big Bend, Franklin, Menomonee Falls, Greenfield, Oak Creek, Whitewater . . .

Along with just doing vermiculite bottoms on all of our inground vinyl liner pools in WI, MN, & IL, we also apply it with a special mixer and pump from Strong Manufacturing.  The mixer and pump give us a perfect consistency throughout the entire pool so we don’t have to worry about some areas being too dry or wet.  The time that it takes us to pour a bottom has been greatly reduced, and we have 10% – 15% less waste then with a simple paddle mixer.  Penguin Pools is also able to keep the site cleaner as we have over 75′ of hose, so we can keep the mixer away from the house in the corner of your site to minimize the clutter & mess.

Penguin Pools also re-pours bottoms for older pools that had original sand bottoms.  The key to a good inground vinyl liner replacement is a solid base.  In the Milwaukee, WI & Minneapolis, MN areas we do a ton of vinyl liner pool replacements that are damaged do to a bad or poor subsurface.

In the SE WI, Penguin Pools does pool bottoms, for various pool companies in the region who due not have the equipment to do them as quickly or efficiently as us.

* Vermiculite is must easier to apply to steep side walls & will not wash away with changes in water tables.
**  Vermiculite forms a monolithic, permanent, cast and will always remain in place.
***  Vermiculite becomes an insulating barrier from the cold temperatures of the soil beneath it.

The pictures in this article were from Racine, Merton, Sussex, and Waukesha.

This step is perfectly functional and will last for 30+ years, however it doesn’t jump out and say “look at me”.  While white walk-in steps are common, you can dress them up by having them match the liner pattern.

These steps match the liner exactly and are a really nice upgrade.  It makes the pool look more seamless and adds a certain kick from the standard white steps.

Just as a comparison, here is what the corner in-pool steps look like . . . a standard on all inground swimming pools that have an auto cover.

If you are really looking to get custom Penguin Pools can fabricate any type step you want out of steel and have the liner go over it.  This allows you to do benches, wading areas for children, sun ledges . . . the options are endless.

You can see that the customer above wanted the feel of a walk-in step, but didn’t want the standard white.  He wanted it to look custom and have the entire pool flow seamlessly.   The step is centered between his gazebo and deck perfectly (actually we are off by about 1.5 inches).

Here our customer wanted a true Double Roman swimming pool, so we constructed a custom steel roman step for him.  The step is seamless in its design and looks great at any view.

This Penguin Pools customer wanted to have an auto cover with a completely custom pool step.  We designed a step that went into the corner of the pool & then had the second riser extend as a bench the entire width of the pool.  This pool has all the benefits of an auto cover and still has a custom step with the vinyl liner going over it.

Please feel free to contact Penguin Pools of Milwaukee if you have any questions regarding custom steps for your inground vinyl liner pool.  We have steps located in Elm Grove, Muskego, Waterford, Harland, Brookfield, Menomonee Falls, Waukesha, Big Bend, Kenosha, Pingree Grove . . .

Penguin Pools often comes across rock or bad fill in many newer subdivisions.  Builders take fill from one site and put it on another site until they don’t have any more sites to hid the fill.  Rock and buried construction trash makes building an inground pool very challenging.  When building a vinyl liner pool, the walls have to sit on virgin ground so there is no worry about settling.  When you hit soil or earth that doesn’t hold its form / collapses, you need to find away to create virgin soil.

In the Milwaukee, WI area we hit clay or rock 90% of the time.  Rock is most common in the Waukesha, Merton, Hartland, Sussex areas; however we have had poor conditions in Waterford, Menomonee Falls and Brookfield areas.

The way Penguin Pools of Milwaukee & Minneapolis builds vinyl liner pools on rock is fairly simple.

1.  Dig your pool like normal to spec.  The earth will fall and crumble making your dig shelf and ramps useless . . . Like the above picture.
2.  Order Traffic Bond (usually 1/4″ with fines) and fill in the hole you just dug.  This is the same material that gets compacted under your concrete flat work.
4.  Once you pool dig is level along the entire dig shelf, leave it sit until it is completely dry.  It is usually fine to work with the next day, but may take up to 24 hours.

5.  Now you can re-dig your pool to specs and the walls will hold.  The compacted TB dries like concrete and you now have virgin ground to build on.  Your vinyl liner inground swimming pool will not settle or have issues due to poor soil.  Just be aware that hand forming will be difficult due to the strength of the compacted TB.

***  Just an FYI, this requires a lot of TB 10 – 15 full dump trucks (quads).  Don’t worry, this can then be used as backfill if you so choose.

Here is another slideshow of a pool we did in 2004.

Many pool builders will just use a patch to cover a wound.  Using vermiculite to patch voids is an easy and cheap way to rectify the problem, however it isn’t the correct way to do it.  You need to create the correct earth to build on so your pool will not have issues 5, 10, 30 years down the road.  This costs more, but it is the correct way to do it and will prevent you from having to pre-maturely get a vinyl liner replacement on your swimming pool.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact Penguin Pools of Milwaukee or Minneapolis.

Many inground pool builders don’t give customers the options to maximize your shallow end.  You may think that the amount of shallow end doesn’t matter, but think about it.  How often do you stand in an inground pool and not have to tread water?  Most people jump in, swim a little bit then go to the shallow end or a part of the pool that they can stand.  Face it, we aren’t all Michael Phelps in the pool and we need to stand.

To make things even more exciting, you can create a sport pool which puts the deep end of the pool in the middle . . . great for volleyball and basketball setups.  This has recently become common place, but you would be surprised how many pool builders will not do this or even offer it to their customers.

Penguin Pools  in Milwaukee & Minneapolis allow you to customize every part of your pool depth and layout.  We personally recommend maximizing your shallow end for maximum enjoyment.  You will never stand in the deep end of an 8′ deep pool, so why make it so big.  Penguin Pools is about safety first, so we always make sure our dig specs meet Federal Regulations for diving envelopes.  Basically the pool has to be a particular depth and the ramp a particular angle.

Here you can view a standard shallow end.
Here is the same pool with a larger shallow end, both meet regulations for diving boards.  The extra footage in the shallow end really make a big deal on even smaller pools like a 16′ x 32′.

Penguin Pools also likes to put in safety ledges for all of our pools that have smaller children.  A safety ledge is a walking platform all the way around a pool that is the same depth as the shallow end 3′ – 3.5′.  Now when a child jumps into the pool, wherever they are, only have to get to the side of the pool to stand.  They no longer have to swim all the way to the shallow end.  While most safety ledges are 12″ wide, Penguin Pools can also put a safety ledge in a pool regulated for diving.  Instead of the 12″ wide, it can only be 6″ to meet Federal Regulations.
To give you even more to think about, we can put a safety ledge on certain walls.  Here you can view a pool that Penguin Pools of Milwaukee did that had a safety ledge on the back wall and is rated for a diving board.

If you have any concerns that your pool builder can’t do a custom dig, they shouldn’t be building your pool.  Penguin Pools of Milwaukee & Minneapolis will and can provide you with custom dig specs before you even sign the dotted line.  We will create the pool of your dreams, regardless of how deep it is.

Penguin Pools has custom dig specs throughout SE WI, we have very few “standard” digs for our swimming pools throughout Waukesha, Waterford, Brookfield, Menomonee Falls, Muskego, Merton, Hartland . . .

By having your designs pre-built, we can install them quicker and for less money than if we built the whole thing from scratch.  You can combine fireplaces, wet bars,  grills, benches, tables, firepits … the options are endless.

These units really transform and inground vinyl liner pool into something great.

The great thing is that Harmony is located in WI so it has distributors like us (Penguin Pools) in Waukesha, New Berlin, Merton, Waterford, Brookfield, & Sussex.

If you have any questions or would like Penguin Pools to give you a free estimate, don’t hesitate to contact us directly.

Rule #1 :: If you are putting in an inground swimming pool, never use sand.  If you are talking to a builder who only uses sand, politely say thanks and escort him out of your house.  Using sand is easier, less expensive, less messy; but it is also just being lazy, suck in 1980, and not good for the end user.  Simply put, you are working with someone who isn’t concerned with making the best pool possible.

Strong Pool Krete is made up of Portland cement, vermiculite, and sand.  When all three are combined and troweled out, you get a strong smooth surface for your liner to lay on.  Pool Krete will setup and turn into a hard “cork board” for your liner.

When using sand under your vinyl liner is doesn’t hold its form as well as Vermiculite.  The sand takes years to get fully packed down and not move anymore.  HOWEVER, before it packs down you can feel waves and even make indentations with your heel in the sand.  I am sure that you have been swimming in a pool when you felt their was a gap under your feet.  That is from the substrate, sand, moving or creating divots.

Some people, not many anymore that I know of, that also use concrete under the liner.  While concrete is strong, it is very rough and grainy.  The concrete can never get as smooth as the vermiculite and in turn it will slowly rub the underside of the liner making it weak.
You may not feel it, but each time you take a step on the liner it will move a little.  If you don’t have a smooth surface it will rub the bottom of the liner raw.

Above ground swimming pools are generally less expensive and move for the budget minded consumer.  Adding sand to the bottom is usually preferred as it is less expensive.  Using Pool Krete instead of sand is going to cost about $1,000 – $1,500 instead of the $300 for the sand.

Using sand in an above ground pool is more acceptable as it is more budget minded.  Inground pools need to last for 50+ years and more times the vermiculite will only need minor patching each time you replace the liner . . . every 15 or so years.

Simply put, if you want a perfect bottom for years to come use Pool Krete on your pool bottom.  When it is done, and done correctly, you will see how perfect the liner will fit.
Penguin Pools is so dedicated to perfect pool bottoms, that we have a specially made mixer just for Strong Pool Krete.  Most people use a simply paddle mixer, but we want and need a perfect mix so we have mixer and pump only for the Pool Krete.

Since we have a specific machine for Vermiculite, we do pools bottoms for swimming pools companies located in Waukesha, Wales, Merton, Menomonee Falls, Brookfield, and Muskego.

If you would like to purchase Strong Pool Krete and have it dropped shipped to your door, simply contact MyPoolBuild.com for your order.

A self-priming pump, by definition, is a pump which will clear its passages of air if it becomes air bound and resume delivery of the pumpage without outside attention.

If you are firing up the pump for the first time on your new inground swimming pool or if you are just opening your pool for the year, you will have to prime your pool pump.

1. Make sure your pump is turned off and slowly open the lid of the pump.  The lid to the pump is more than likely clear.  Opening the pump lid slowly is important as it is more than likely under pressure.  When you open it, you will hear the air “hiss” out.
2. Make sure there is no debris or “stuff” in the basket of the pool pump, if there is remove it.  If you pump is old and the basket is starting to break or fall apart, REPLACE IT.  A broken pump basket will allow debris to get to the impeller of the pump . . . not a good thing.
3. If you have multiple suction lines (skimmers, main drains) close them all off but one.  I prefer to close all the valves except the main drain as the main drain will have less air in it than a skimmer line.  Now get a bucket of water (2-3 gallons) or a hose to fill up the pump with water.  The water will go into the pump and fill up going back down the plumbing line that has been left over.
4. Now put the lid back on your pool pump making sure that the gaskets on the lid is secured correctly on the pump.  Make sure to only hand tighten the screws or knobs holding the lid in place.  The seal from the pump to the gasket on the lid is what makes an air tight seal.
5. Making sure that only one of your suction lines is open, turn your pump on.  You will see that all the water gets sucked out of the pump and water is no longer visible in the pump.  Your pool pump is now pulling all the air out through the open suction line and forcing it through the system.  You will hear the air bubbling out of your closest return line, or you will just see it bubbling out . . . that is fine.  You  will have to wait up to a minute to see a little bit of water coming through pump, but once you see a little it is only a matter of time before the water really starts to move.
   • If after a minute your pump is not moving water, turn it off and go through the process again.  This time however add twice as much water as you did the last time.
6. When your pump is fully primed, no air moving through the pump, and moving just water it is time to open up the other valve(s).  You will know when your pump is primed as you will look through the lid and not see any air bubbles, just straight water.  SLOWLY open up another valve.  The new valve will have air in it so the pump will loose prime, but don’t fear it will come back soon.

I personally like to open the valve slowly then close it once the pool pump looses prime.  The pump will then pull straight water from the line that you started with getting fully primed again.  You might have to do it a couple of times, but it generally works better than just opening the valve completely and then walking away.  Depending on the other lines and how much air is in the plumbing, you might loose prime and have to start the entire process over.

Clean Swimming Pool Plumbing by Penguin Pools

Over time an inground swimming pool’s vinyl liner will start to dry out, crack, rip, or shrink.  While that might sound like a horrible thing to happen, it really isn’t the end of the world.  Now don’t get me wrong, having a fiberglass pool that doesn’t use a vinyl liner is great but you have to pay for that upfront.

The biggest killer of vinyl liners, or any pool equipment for that matter, is unbalanced chemicals.  The more your chemicals fluctuate and “bounce” the more damage you do to your liner and equipment.  Vinyl liners and concrete pools constantly absorb chemicals, when they are balanced not much happens but when they bounce it starts to dry the liner out.

In addition to chemicals, the sun plays a large part on how long your liner will last.  People with automatic covers see their liners last longer as they always have their covers closed, the nice part of having a cover that closes in 45 seconds.  The less a sun can hit the liner the longer you will resist fading and drying out the top of your liner.

Removing and replacing a liner isn’t as hard as most people think.  Pumping the pool out is usually the longest part of the process if you don’t have a large water pump.  We (Penguin Pools) use a large pump that moves roughly 16,000 gallons an hour and takes us roughly 2 hours to clear out any pool.  A shop-vac is usually need for the last few gallons, but even that isn’t that bad.

Once the pool is pumped, it is time to take off the liner and see what the underlayment looks like.  We usually cut the liner into pieces so that it is easier to remove from the site and throw away.  The vermiculite is looked over and patched where needed and given some time to dry.  If you have a sand bottom a few bags of sand might be need to level the floor, but once again not a hard process.

Once the bottom is ready again, make sure to sweep it and vac everything out.  You don’t want a pebble or stone on the floor before you put your liner on.  A clean bottom will save you time in the long run, but if you miss something don’t worry as it can be pounded out later if need be.

Make sure you replace all your gaskets around your steps, in-wall ladder, lights, returns, main drains, skimmers and anything else you have below the water line.  Using old gaskets will do one thing for you . . . give you a leak.

While Penguin Pools doesn’t believe in using foam on our walls, many do.  We feel that it is a breading ground for fungi and mold, of which will eat the vinyl liner form the backside out.  HOWEVER, foam is a good way to hide imperfections on old pools to make it look more level and even.  If you decide to use foam on your walls, make sure that it is secured and ready to go.

When everything is cleaned and ready, install the new liner with air vacs sucking the air from behind the liner.  Fill with water and you will be set.

Penguin Pools generally charges $2,800 – $3,200 for a liner replacement.  While some pools need more work than others, those prices usually hold true.
Contact us for a free estimate on replacing your vinyl liner or any other service work you might have.  Penguin Pools has offices in
Milwaukee, WI
LaCrosse, WI
Minneapolis, MN